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VARIETAL GRAPES BY APPELLATION d'ORIGINE CÔNTROLÉE

The following list identifies the better known Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée found in France and the dominant grape varieties grown within each. This list is meant to give the reader a good understanding of the varietal and their relationship to the region in which they grow, but is not meant to be all inclusive or the definitive word on the subject.

Alsace:
This beautiful area is where the French wines of the Rhine are produced. Known for light Pinot Blanc and Gris, spicy Gewurtztraminer, and the sweeter Riesling and Muscat, this picturesque region is the only appellation in France that actually uses the grape type as the identifier. Look at the label and you will see Vin d'Alsace and then the grape type.
Leading grape types found in Alsace are; Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, Tokay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Sylvaner.

Bordeaux:
Arguably the most important wine region in France. To most wine drinkers, Bordeaux is red wine. In fact more that three-quarters of the wine bottled in Bordeaux is red. Reds here tend to be blended with a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes with some Malbec and Petit Verdant and Cabernet Franc rounding out the mix. Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle grapes are the only grapes allowed to produce the white wines of Bordeaux.

Literally all red wines in Bordeaux are blends. The proportions fall within a parameters set forth to give the best flavor for the particular region, although the final product is up to the individual grower. The proportions will greatly alter the intensity, flavor, and drinkability of the wine. For example, those placing a heavy emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon will tend to be very tannic early in life, until the years mellow it out. A heavy concentration of Merlot on the other hand may render a wine more drinkable at an early age, but may be a bit "flabby" and not hold as long as a Cab.

Burgundy:
Lighter and in many ways more drinkable than Bordeaux's, the wines of Burgundy have pleased palates for centuries. Predominant grape types are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (red and white respectively) with a bit of Gamay and Aligoté tossed in. The Burgundian wines, both white and red are very drinkable. The steely acidic wines of Chablis, fruity Beaujolais (made from the Gamay grape) and the elegance of the Côte d'Or hold a place in every wine drinkers heart.
There are 5 distinct districts within Burgundy that one should be aware of. And as with any Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the more specific the designations, the stricter the standards, and the better the wine. These districts are: Chablis (the very steely flavored whites that fit with Oysters like a glove), The Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais, and Beaujolais. Each has it's own unique personality and is worth exploring in more detail. Because of the size and diversity. Burgundy is further sub classified for vineyards of exceptional quality. These classifications are Grand Cru and Premier Cru.

Languedoc-Roussillon:
This relative newcomer was known until very recently for producing industrial production grapes and some of the poorer wines found. This has changed radically, and for the better. Due to stringent regulations governing appellations, this region has begun to turn out some remarkably crisp, lively and inexpensive wines. This Languedoc is further blessed with an abundance of sun and warmth so vintages are not as important here as other. What should speak volumes to the wine purchaser is the producer of the wine itself.
Reds tend to do better in the heat of the region than the whites. Reds and even Rosés are made from blends of Carignan, Grenache, Cinsaut, and Aramon, although these are gradually being relegated to a minor role with the plantings of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. White wines, as implied above, do not do well although some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay vines are doing well.

Loire Valley:
668 miles of river running through an incredible variety of climates and terrain geographically defines the Loire River Valley. And while many appellations share the valley in common, very the public knows few of the wines as Loire wines. The Loire Valley produces all types of wines, red and white, sweet and dry, sparkling and still. What tends to unify the various wines is that they are fresh and lively and best drunk young.
The predominant grape types found in wines from Loire are Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadet although Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are beginning to show up more and more. Lesser types include Chasselas, Cot, Gamay, Noble, and Pinot Noir to name a few.
Acidity and the complete lack of oaking make these wines amazingly versatile and satisfying. They are really wonderful "food" wines for they pair off so well with so many styles.
A few of the better known wines from this region are Pouilly-Fumé, Sancerre, Muscadet, Vouvray.

Provence:
This area of France, made famous by the English writer, Peter Mayle, in his delightful book A Year in Provence has helped to bring wines from this region to the forefront. The wines of this region have a spice and life that blends very well with the easy lifestyle of this Mediterranean region.
As with the wines of the Languedoc region, white grapes do not do especially well here. Reds are some white wines are found here although don't for a minute neglect the rosé's produced in Provence. With the abundance of seafood, and the Mediterranean sun, rosé's from Provence are nicely dry and full bodied with a fresh, clean taste.
Look for Grenache, Cincault, Mourvèdre, and Carignan to be the basis for most of the reds and rosé's, although this province allows a considerable number of grape varieties to be employed in the making of wine. Clairette and the Rolle grapes are two white grape types used in Provence, but as a rule white wines from Provence are uninspiring at best.

Rhône Wines:
The Côtes du Rhône is a 140 mile North/South run of vineyards beginning in Lyon in the North and ending in Avignon in the South. As one can imagine, there are as many variations in style of Rhône wines as there are miles in the river. Let's examine the northern vineyards first.
Rhône reds from this area are big. The granite laced soil is an ideal medium for growing the likes of Côtes-Rôtie, Cornas, Hermitage, and Crozes-Hermitage. All show off their characteristic spice, pepper, black cherry and black currant flavors, and while only a small fraction of the total production of Rhône wines, they are nonetheless some of the most satisfying and important in France.
Condrieu from the northern Rhône region is a perfumy combination of apricot and peach, meant to be drunk and enjoyed young. Produced from the Viognier grape, the appellation has increased it's acreage 10-fold in the last 20 years.
Moving to the southern tier of the Rhône valley wines, one finds some of the more well-known wines from the region including the justly famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The warmth of the Mediterranean allows the growers room to experiment with a wider variety of grapes. In fact, up to 13 varietals can be legally blended; although 3 to 4 is more the norm, dominated by Grenache grapes blended with Syrah and Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
Also from the south, Tavel produces a wonderfully crisp dry rosé, one of the finest found anywhere. Again the Grenache grape is dominant in this wine, as with others in the region. It is nicely rich, with pepper overtones and works well with a variety of foods, not the least of which being seafood, which holds well to its Mediterranean traditions.

 


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