| VARIETAL GRAPES BY
APPELLATION d'ORIGINE CÔNTROLÉE
The following list identifies the better known
Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée
found in France and the dominant grape varieties grown within each.
This list is meant to give the reader a good understanding of the
varietal and their relationship to the region in which they grow,
but is not meant to be all inclusive or the definitive word on the
subject.
Alsace:
This beautiful area is where the French
wines of the Rhine are produced. Known for light Pinot Blanc and
Gris, spicy Gewurtztraminer, and the sweeter Riesling and Muscat,
this picturesque region is the only appellation in France that actually
uses the grape type as the identifier. Look at the label and you
will see Vin d'Alsace and then the grape type.
Leading grape types found in Alsace are; Gewurtztraminer, Riesling,
Tokay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Sylvaner.
Bordeaux:
Arguably the most important wine region
in France. To most wine drinkers, Bordeaux is red wine. In fact
more that three-quarters of the wine bottled in Bordeaux is red.
Reds here tend to be blended with a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot grapes with some Malbec and Petit Verdant and Cabernet
Franc rounding out the mix. Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle
grapes are the only grapes allowed to produce the white wines of
Bordeaux.
Literally all red wines in Bordeaux are blends.
The proportions fall within a parameters set forth to give the best
flavor for the particular region, although the final product is
up to the individual grower. The proportions will greatly alter
the intensity, flavor, and drinkability of the wine. For example,
those placing a heavy emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon will tend to
be very tannic early in life, until the years mellow it out. A heavy
concentration of Merlot on the other hand may render a wine more
drinkable at an early age, but may be a bit "flabby" and not hold
as long as a Cab.
Burgundy:
Lighter and in many ways more drinkable
than Bordeaux's, the wines of Burgundy have pleased palates for
centuries. Predominant grape types are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
(red and white respectively) with a bit of Gamay and Aligoté tossed
in. The Burgundian wines, both white and red are very drinkable.
The steely acidic wines of Chablis, fruity Beaujolais (made from
the Gamay grape) and the elegance of the Côte d'Or hold a place
in every wine drinkers heart.
There are 5 distinct districts within Burgundy that one should be
aware of. And as with any Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the more
specific the designations, the stricter the standards, and the better
the wine. These districts are: Chablis (the very steely flavored
whites that fit with Oysters like a glove), The Côte d'Or, Côte
Chalonnaise, Mâconnais, and Beaujolais. Each has it's own unique
personality and is worth exploring in more detail. Because of the
size and diversity. Burgundy is further sub classified for vineyards
of exceptional quality. These classifications are Grand Cru and
Premier Cru.
Languedoc-Roussillon:
This relative newcomer was known until
very recently for producing industrial production grapes and some
of the poorer wines found. This has changed radically, and for the
better. Due to stringent regulations governing appellations, this
region has begun to turn out some remarkably crisp, lively and inexpensive
wines. This Languedoc is further blessed with an abundance of sun
and warmth so vintages are not as important here as other. What
should speak volumes to the wine purchaser is the producer of the
wine itself.
Reds tend to do better in the heat of the region than the whites.
Reds and even Rosés are made from blends of Carignan, Grenache,
Cinsaut, and Aramon, although these are gradually being relegated
to a minor role with the plantings of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. White wines, as implied above, do not do well
although some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay vines are doing well.
Loire Valley:
668 miles of river running through an incredible
variety of climates and terrain geographically defines the Loire
River Valley. And while many appellations share the valley in common,
very the public knows few of the wines as Loire wines. The Loire
Valley produces all types of wines, red and white, sweet and dry,
sparkling and still. What tends to unify the various wines is that
they are fresh and lively and best drunk young.
The predominant grape types found in wines from Loire are Chenin
Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadet although Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes are beginning to show up more and more. Lesser
types include Chasselas, Cot, Gamay, Noble, and Pinot Noir to name
a few.
Acidity and the complete lack of oaking make these wines amazingly
versatile and satisfying. They are really wonderful "food" wines
for they pair off so well with so many styles.
A few of the better known wines from this region are Pouilly-Fumé,
Sancerre, Muscadet, Vouvray.
Provence:
This area of France, made famous by the
English writer, Peter Mayle, in his delightful book A Year in Provence
has helped to bring wines from this region to the forefront. The
wines of this region have a spice and life that blends very well
with the easy lifestyle of this Mediterranean region.
As with the wines of the Languedoc region, white grapes do not do
especially well here. Reds are some white wines are found here although
don't for a minute neglect the rosé's produced in Provence. With
the abundance of seafood, and the Mediterranean sun, rosé's from
Provence are nicely dry and full bodied with a fresh, clean taste.
Look for Grenache, Cincault, Mourvèdre, and Carignan to be the basis
for most of the reds and rosé's, although this province allows a
considerable number of grape varieties to be employed in the making
of wine. Clairette and the Rolle grapes are two white grape types
used in Provence, but as a rule white wines from Provence are uninspiring
at best.
Rhône Wines:
The Côtes du Rhône is a 140 mile North/South
run of vineyards beginning in Lyon in the North and ending in Avignon
in the South. As one can imagine, there are as many variations in
style of Rhône wines as there are miles in the river. Let's examine
the northern vineyards first.
Rhône reds from this area are big. The granite laced soil is an
ideal medium for growing the likes of Côtes-Rôtie, Cornas, Hermitage,
and Crozes-Hermitage. All show off their characteristic spice, pepper,
black cherry and black currant flavors, and while only a small fraction
of the total production of Rhône wines, they are nonetheless some
of the most satisfying and important in France.
Condrieu from the northern Rhône region is a perfumy combination
of apricot and peach, meant to be drunk and enjoyed young. Produced
from the Viognier grape, the appellation has increased it's acreage
10-fold in the last 20 years.
Moving to the southern tier of the Rhône valley wines, one finds
some of the more well-known wines from the region including the
justly famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The warmth of the Mediterranean
allows the growers room to experiment with a wider variety of grapes.
In fact, up to 13 varietals can be legally blended; although 3 to
4 is more the norm, dominated by Grenache grapes blended with Syrah
and Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
Also from the south, Tavel produces a wonderfully crisp dry rosé,
one of the finest found anywhere. Again the Grenache grape is dominant
in this wine, as with others in the region. It is nicely rich, with
pepper overtones and works well with a variety of foods, not the
least of which being seafood, which holds well to its Mediterranean
traditions.
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